Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Beijing: Land of abundant, cheap eats

A part of me is in love with this city. This part of me is also a sinner guilty of gluttony. Besides having every type of Chinese food imaginable, the recent years of Chinese borders becoming more porous have also invited a wide array of foreign foods into the fold. And when considering these eats whilst earning a salary (/unemployment check, whatever) in US dollars--even though the dollar ain't what it used to be--it's all damned cheap and delicious.

Case in point: I just had half a Beijing duck with all the fixins for Y29. That's like $4.15. Then I followed with a bunch of lamb kebabs at Y1 a piece. I don't care if street meats are a recipe for disaster; I'm armed with Immodium. I wonder how it is that the girls here are generally stick figures. How can they deny themselves these simple pleasures that this city has in such abundance? Sigh. Oh, and home beer delivery at Y2 for a 600ml bottle. Score.

Stomach aside, the rest of me is really not that fond of this city. It's too large, flat, dirty, and ugly. Communist bloc architecture? Not so hot. Also, this city is definitely not pedestrian friendly. None of China's larger cities seem to be. Someone ought to sack the people in the city planning departments for prioritizing the car-owning minority over the walking majority.

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Yunnan is for lovers [of trekking]



For those of you who aren't all that impressed with Yunnan's bevy of commercialized Old Towns, I highly recommend this itinerary. May '08, the Old Man and I decided to do a tour of this beautiful province mostly by foot, and the sore muscles were well worth it.

Click the links for more information and pictures on the respective destinations. Also, all prices were from my experience in May '08 and are surely subject to change.

  • Fly into Kunming, Yunnan's capital, and enjoy a couple of relaxing days at the Hump Hostel. It's centrally located with cheap private rooms, clean facilities, and a rooftop terrace overlooking the main square. (120Y for private double/triple)
  • From there, somehow get yourself to Lijiang. Most people take a bus to Dali first, but from my understanding, it's just one big commercialized Old Town. It used to be a hub for artists and musicians, but no more! I'd recommend skipping it. WARNING: Taking the overnight bus is beyond uncomfortable but also a fraction of the cost of flying. Your choice.
  • There are a couple of sights in Lijiang. You can join a tour group and visit Yulong Xue Shan (Jade Dragon Snow Mountain), but it's really just for sightseeing and not so much for active trekking. You can also visit Lugu Hu (Lugu Lake), but in the wise words of Doris when asked how Lake Titicaca was, "Seen a lake?" The primary reason to visit Lugu Lake is to get a taste of the Mosuo matriarchical society who resides there.
  • In Lijiang, grab a bus to Qiaotou at the head of Houtiao Xia (Tiger Leaping Gorge). You can either do the two day trek in Houtiao Xia to Haba Village or you can just hop on a bus/hitchhike/hire a private ride to the village. (The Old Man and I skipped out on hiking Houtiao Xia due to time constraints, but it turns out there's a better hike to do anyway).
  • Once in Haba Village, I recommend staying at the popular hiker's retreat, Haba Snow Mountain Inn (Y20 for dorm, Y100 for private room and bath). At the Inn, you can also prepare yourself for ONE FREAKING AMAZING CLIMB to the top of Haba Xue Shan (5,396m). Hire a guide (Y100/day), donkey (Y150/day), rent crampons, ice axes, tents, and sleeping bags for the 2 day climb up to the summit.
  • Once done with your amazing time at Haba, take the morning bus (8am) out of Haba Village to Zhongdian/Shangrila/Xiangelila. Enjoy the sightseeing along this ride--it's gorgeous! You can even see the popular tourist destination, Baishuitai (limestone terraces), from the window of the bus.
  • In Shangrila, you can find a million hostels and inns in Old Town. We stayed at the first one we saw called the God of Wealth Inn (Y100 for private double). It's a lovely place with rooms surrounding a cute courtyard, private bathrooms, free internet, and it's very cheap--much cheaper than the popular ex-pat places found on hostel booking sites. Recommended, but get a room on the second floor.
  • There is quite a bit to do around Shangrila. I much preferred Shangrila's comparatively uncommercialized Old Town to that of Lijiang's. Take the #3 bus for Y1 to get to Songzanling Monastery at the outskirts of town. Hire a taxi (Y50) to take you to the fields where yaks and cattle graze on flat plains with a backdrop of snow mountains. Walk around Old Town and join in on the nightly dancing in the Old Town Square.
  • From Shangrila, take the bus to Deqin. While it's only 100km away, the mountain roads make this a 5hr bus ride. There isn't much to do in Deqin but from there, take a short chartered ride (Y30) to Feilai for a sight of Meili Xue Shan (6,740m).
  • People go to Felai for the sole purpose of getting a glimpse of Meili at sunrise, without clouds. Meili is considered a mystical mountain and due to weather patterns in the area, it's rare to be able to see this mountain range in its full glory, unobstructed by clouds. Climbing the mountain is forbidden due to one particularly nasty tragedy in 1991, but many religious Tibetans annually circle the mountain (15-20days) for spiritual reasons. You can likewise partake in the trek but there's also a shorter version, which we did.
  • From Felai, grab a chartered ride to Xidang Village (Y130). Here you can hire a guide and/or donkey to get you to Upper or Lower Yubeng Village. The only way to get to Yubeng is by foot/donkey and requires climbing 1,100m to get over a mountain pass.
  • In Yubeng (either Upper or Lower; they're about 40min away from each other by foot), you can trek to the base camp of Meili's summit, visit Glacier Lake, see some little tiny waterfalls (sacred for spiritual reasons). All three things require a guide (Y100/day). If you're fast, you can probably visit two of those destinations in one day.
  • While most people return to Xidang by going the way they came, a much better alternate route takes you to Ninong Village. Again, any guide will be able to lead the way. This 30km hike is mostly downhill (phew) and it's absolutely amazing. The trek takes you along the Yubeng River Gorge, which we were told is infinitely more beautiful than Tiger Leaping Gorge. This trek is definitely not for those who are afraid of heights. Scary stuff up there.
  • 30km later, you're back in Xidang where you can grab a chartered ride back to Felai... and eventually, back home!

All right. So there's my highly recommended itinerary for trekkers! You can't find it in Lonely Planet, that's for sure! It helps to be able to speak a little bit of Chinese to do it all as no one speaks English in northern Yunnan... and frankly, most don't even speak mandarin. Feel free to email me with any questions!

Photo Update: Kunming


Ernie loading up on Da Bai Tu (Big White Rabbit) candies in Kunming




Insects are tasty. Tempura-style silkworms and bees. Crunchy. In Yunnan Province there is a popular saying that Yunnan has "shi ba gui" (18 oddities). They're little rhymes including, "lao tai po pa shan bi hou zi qui" translating to, "old women climb mountains faster than monkeys" and "san ge chong zi yi won zai" translating to, "three insects fill one dinner plate" --relating to the fact that Yunnan's bugs are HUGE. The ones on this plate are tiny but I can attest to the hugeness of the cockroaches. Saw one outside on Hump Hostel's terrace--nasty little bugger.

(My pinyin is really bad. Oops.)

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Beijing is awesome

Ok. So like it's been a long time (8 years) since I've been to this city so a lot has changed&it's awesome.

Currently waiting for a fantastic meal at a hip restaurant where, while you wait, free manicures, refreshments, shoe-shines, and internet are offered. Now that's service!

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Lonely Planet sucks

After finding a discarded Lonely Planet on China at the hostel in which I'm currently staying, I've decided it totally sucks. Of course, we already probably knew that, but if you've got no other recourse, sticking to a lame-o guidebook is probably your best bet. Well, except in the future I'll start using wikitravel.org more.

Anyhow, I'll be posting a sweet guide to Yunnan Province once I've got some time. Trust me, if you're going to be coming to Yunnan anytime soon (and I highly recommend you do because this is a great place to visit), you'll want to take a look at this guide I'll be prepping. :D

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Safe and whatnot

The earthquake in Sichuan occurred while I was cluelessly shopping in Shangri-la's Old Town. Supposedly tremors were felt, but the group of us experienced nothing and didn't even know of what happened until someone sent a worried text. Tellingly, we are fine. Our thoughts are with those who are affected by the disaster.

Sunday, May 11, 2008

On the way up Haba Snow Mountain, approx. 5,100m above sea level and going up


I've been away on another multi-day trek (around Meili Snow Mountain) and thus still have not updated on that grand trip up Haba. However, I bring you this photo of yours truly (I'm the one in the grey) courtesy of one of the members of aa52.com--the climbing club with whom we were so graciously acquainted. You can see more photos from the climb on his blog, here. It's all in Chinese, so uh, yeah. Scroll down a bit. I'll update more later.

Headed back to Kunming tomorrow evening and then it's off to Beijing!

Monday, May 05, 2008

Chinese Nationalist growing--but definitely not due to the Olympics

As the West continues to deplore China, its Communist practices, its human rights abuses, its Tibetan-oppression, its production of lead-tainted products, and whatever else negative, I can't help but feel a great sense of Chinese accomplishment as I am here today. Of course, this country has its problems, but ask anyone--literally, anyone--and they can all nod in agreement when talking about how much lives have improved. Western media has you believe that the Chinese laobaixing (country folk) have a tough road to hoe. Of course, some certainly do. As there are starving people in America, there are also starving folks here... but it's not all bleak.

As my Dad keeps saying when he gazes upon the vast metropolises of today's China, "When I left 20-some years ago, my monthly salary was Y60. Hard to imagine, huh?" Even after factoring in inflation, today's China is unarguably a lot richer. When we visit extended family and friends--middle class Chinese--in their city apartments, we often say that their "xiao huan jing" (or immediate environment) is better than we have it back in the States. For one thing, their homes are all fancifully renovated and decorated with many more luxuries than our middle class homes in the US. It's the "da huan jing" (large environment), including air pollution (and awful public bathrooms--hah), that is the main difference. Pretty much any middle-class Chinese can afford a car these days with the Chinese-built ones costing as low as Y20,000. That classic image of Beijing's streets filled with bicycles is now completely outdated; it's the cars that cause the congestion these days. I was even surprised by how few bikes I saw, even in the poorer cities. But we all know that city folk are doing ok--what about the countrymen?

The countryside is definitely poor by US standards, naturally. But everyone's carrying a mobile and everyone's got electricity, though it can get a bit wonky as we experienced in Haba Village. On our trip up Haba Mountain, we first stayed in a ostensibly poor family-home on the outskirts of town with dog-earred posters of Chairman Mao glued to the walls. We ate in the kitchen/living/sleeping area with the farming family and talked about how things have changed. They laughed when we asked if those fields they were planting outside were enough to feed their growing family. "It's for the animals to eat!" they say. "We buy our food!" Subsistence farming? Not so much, it turns out. Next we moved to the Haba Mountain Inn in the middle of the village with all sorts of people from all walks of life ready to climb the mountain. We immediately became fast friends with a group of fellow climbers also staying at the Inn. When learning that we came from the US, they were all curious to think about what we thought of modern China. Turns out, the three of them--in their 30s and 40s--all grew up in the countryside, farming outside of Kunming. Today, they're equipped in western climbing gear ready to partake in a sport that only those who don't have to worry about where their next meal is coming from can bother with. One said, "I ask my mother about today's China and she said she couldn't have even dreamt of it--of how things have changed, have gotten better. 20 years ago, we couldn't even get food! Like hell would I be climbing mountains!"

As China continues to grow develop, lives will only continue to get better. However, there is still a huge threat in this development: the income gap continues to widen. While the poor have their basic necessities met and have rising standards of living, the super rich are in an entirely different stratosphere in terms of material things, but more importantly, in terms of the opportunities provided them. In the West, there are also super rich and super poor, but if you're super poor and willing to work hard, you will be able to pull yourself up. In China, this is just not the case. Education is the main difference. Educating a massive billion-strong population to the same degree is just not possible at the moment. We can only wait and see how China will adjust to this growing crisis in the future.

So yes, Chinese government has its share of problems including its horrid media censorship (blogspot is blocked, AGAIN! grr). But ask anyone if they want "Democracy Now!" and they respond with a laugh. It's a slow process, and the people here want to keep it this way. Could any of today's progress have been possible had they gone the way of Russia with glasnost and perostroika and suddenly, bam, Russian "democracy"? Nope. The country would be a lot worse off if that's the route it took.

Thus, China grows. And the West will continue to reprobate her as she does. Historically, there has always been a great fear of rising powers. When the US grew in the early 20th century, Europe was up in arms. When Japan grew after the War, the US was up in arms. And so today, as China looks like she will become a global power, the rest of the world is up in arms and "China Threat Theories" will become ever more popular. For one thing, would the West really care about the Tibet situation (I'm still unsure what to think of it myself) if China wasn't the party involveed? What if Tibet was a territory being claimed, rightfully or unrightfully, by Tanzania or something? We hardly even heard news about Rwandan genocide, so nevermind a few oppressed monks if that were the case.

Anyway, point is... forget the Beijing Olympics. Ask most Chinese and they agree that government hype over the Olympics is totally out of control and unnatural--not to mention stupid as it draws unnecessary attention from the West. The government wants to use the Olympics as a vessel of Chinese nationalism, but it's not necessary. People here seem to be quite proud of all their country has achieved and don't need that symbolic Olympic torch to prove it.

On a semi-related sidenote, environmental practices here are also changing, I am happy to report! There is still a great deal of waste, but "huan bao" (or environmental protectionism) is on the rise! More and more groups like the environmentally-conscious climbing group we met while climbing up Haba Mountain are popping up. A country can only start to care about its environment once it has the economic criteria to do so, and today's young generation is proving this as just about everyone climbing Haba abided by the classic "Leave no trace" philosophy of US outdoor enthusiasts. Even in the countryside, I was surprised to see how many solar panels were sitting atop shanty huts.

All right... /end really long post. :D

Sunday, May 04, 2008

The thing about squatting bathrooms

As most of you know, bathrooms around the globe vary from area to area. China is quite famous for it's squatting lavatories. I'm fine with popping a squat and have been known to do it in many a public place (ie. 3am, drunk, under the el or 4pm, sober, in the middle of nowhere) so it's not so much the squatting that bothers me. More specifically, it's the fear of slipping and sliding into said toilet that frightens me.

Often times in public places these bathrooms aren't exactly clean. There are usually puddles of water (perhaps urine?) all over the place and I've already slipped a few times--though thankfully not into the actual toilet. My fear of these bathrooms is rooted in reality.

Plus, which way are you supposed to face anyway?? I've been told to always face outwards, but also to always aim your butt above the actual hole. Anyway... whatever.

So even with the dirtiest of western style bathrooms, the risk of falling into the actual toilet is minimal. While you won't exactly lose a leg slipping into a squatter, the thought of it is disgusting. Most middle class homes these days have the sitting toilet--and for this I am thankful.



One thing to note: dirty squatter toilets are preferrable to a nasty sitting toilet with no toilet seat and a rim that's covered in excrement. Digging your own hole in the ground behind a tree is preferrable to both.




Oh, and I just got back from climbing a 5,396m (17,704ft) mountain. And yes, there was some bano libre action all up there, man. I'm tired. I will post about that little trek once I get some photos uploaded. Yes, I know--I am an amazing example of physical fitness. Hehee. In the interim, if you want a visual, it was kind of like this (minus all the frou-frou video editing and cheesy photo takin; images from the Haba hike start at the 6minute mark):


(incidentally, the old man and i will be tackling the Tiger Leaping Gorge hike shown in the video next. will be easy in comparison)